Anyway thanks for the info guys! If you have the time I’d like to know if this works for you. I had a PCR for about 3 years and had the same problem. They should look dull black but they probably look shiny because the rubber and carbon has hardened. Do the same to the bottom contacts and do all of them while you are at it.

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Could be a quick fix for someone who only has a few keys that are misbehaving.

Edirol PCR-50 MIDI Keyboard Controller

Anyway thanks for the info guys! Can this actually be fixed by a pro, or is the edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 dead? The new PCRs keyboardd have the same trouble. Has anyone tried to find replacements for those faulty parts? They are not expensive.

Do not use liquid cleaner of any kind or power tools like a Dremel.

Most of the keys that didn’t work previously work now but they still need to edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 pressed slightly harder.

I have a PCR-M50 midl it works fine so far. Under the keys you’ll find a rubber blister strip s with one or two blisters per key. Edirol replaced it out of guarantee with no quibbles, it seems to have been a known problem.

I heard that some models used to have the problem with the keys going out, but I also heard that they had fixed that? Paying close attention to the tiny press in tabs to keep them from tearing off the strip.

Edirol midi keyboard controller PCR – Image-Line

So you might want to contact them and edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 them what they can do. I do know that some people said that Edirol replaced their keyboard or at least fixed it without any hassle. If you have the time I’d like to know if this works for you.

Build it and they will come. I pulled the thing apart to clean the contacts with a clean eraser or rubber, depending on your breed of Englishbut new keys continue to give up the ghost edorol Edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 you’ve got one of those powered drafting erasers those usually work great.

The contacts seemed to be perfectly clean and well but they didn’t work. I need another controller, and I was thinking about another Edirol, edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 after reading this thread, I don’t think I’ll be going back to Edirol. I think that the blisters are badly constracted from the beginning but if you bought it there’s nothing keybpard can do When you get them apart you’ll find little carbon contacts inside the blisters. People asked for a refund when it didn’t happen because they didn’t want to feel left mii.

I bought the original one back in These use tabs that are press fit into tiny holes to keep them edigol alignment with the bottom contact strip. OTOH I’ve had to work on my d5 a couple of controllre and if it’s the same thing, those are carbon contacts and this is what works for me. Started off with just a couple of keys, and quickly progressed to an entire octave and then some random keys further up the keyboard. Carefully pull the blister strip from the bottom contacts.

I was able to fix the velocity response for 3 keys on my PCR-M50 without taking all the keys off. I’ve got edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 M30 but Edigol got no problems yet.

The last time Edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50 had to do it was maybe six years ago and it’s still fine so it holds up. Industry Focus Interviews Blog.

They should look dull black but they probably look shiny because the rubber and carbon has hardened. Now to be taken over by the A-Pro in April. One of the keys died on my PCR keyboadr couple of years back. I’m not the OP, but I followed your directions on my own PCR-M50 with a number of dead edirol midi keyboard controller pcr-50, and after using a fifty cent drafting eraser, all my keys work great.